Dolanesia

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Goa Cemara

By Ariella N. Lai in Adventure

Sep 29, 2021

With its rich history and still prevalent ties to ancestral beliefs, Indonesia is no stranger to finding answers in mythical beliefs in lieu of rationality and logic.

It’s the truth and something every person should know when they visit Indonesia–specifically Yogyakarta. A very quick overview of this province and why it’s one of the two regions in Indonesia labeled ‘special region’ takes us back to history. This province is designated as a special area since, on the eve of Indonesian independence, the Sultan of Jogja and Prince Paku Alam of Aceh was the first to recognize the newly declared Republic of Indonesia’s authority and sovereignty.

Because of the legal nature of their alliance with their original suzerain (the Dutch East Indies colonial government, which had ceased to exist de facto at the time), they were actually capable of proclaiming their own independence. Instead, they acknowledge the Republic’s authority over their respective territories. Thus, as a show of gratitude, the founding fathers of Indonesia bestowed upon their territories the title of the special region with clauses that allows each regency to govern their own lands while still being under Indonesian authority.

Flash forward to the present, due to the monarchy-like rule of the Sultan of Yogya, the area is still heavy with cultural influence and belief mingled with modernity and globalization. With that in mind, it’s unsurprising to know that locals still believe and worship deities, with the most well-known being Nyi Roro Kidul, the Queen of the Southern Sea. To understand the context of what I’m going to discuss, we have to familiarize ourselves with Nyi Roro Kidul. Everything will make sense in due time, don’t fret young padawan.

Nyi Roro Kidul is the Indonesian Goddess of the Sea, who–in Javanese folklore–is believed to be the mythical consort to the sultans of Yogya and Mataram since the beginning till present time. She rules over her domain of the Southern Sea–commonly known as the Indian Ocean. Nyai Roro Kidul is often depicted as a mermaid who has the ability to steal the souls of all she desires. According to a traditional belief in coastal villages on Southern Java, theQueen often claims the lives of fishermen or beach tourists, and she chooses attractive young men. The current belief is that she often preys on those wearing green her domain–a color she claims as hers and everyone else is forbidden on wearing. Her method is simple, she uses a violent wave to pull her victims away from land and into her awaiting arms where she’ll claim the soul as hers.

Although it may seem a tad ridiculous, locals warn people to not wear green due to a large number of missing people around the areas of her domain. Due to her domain being quite large, it includes Goa Cemara beach, a beach famous for its surroundings, still seemingly untouched by humans. Another unique feature of this beach is the actual trees surrounding it. On other beaches, palm trees and other tropical plants are the norms, but Goa Cemara stays true to its namesake. A rough translation of it to English is Pine Cave, a name given due to the trees surrounding it being pine trees that curve and protects like a cave. Visitors can walk under the curved canopy and admire the green tint the leaves give. It’s a perfect place for photographers and people looking for things to post on social media. Swimming is illegal here, due to the number of lives taken by the large waves believedto be the work of Nyi Roro Kidul. Those who have been claimed by the Queen of the South Sea are often lost at sea forever, their bodies and souls a sacrifice to her.

Even if you don’t enter the water, wearing green is still something locals advise against due to the legend and the myth. Again, it seems a bit ridiculous but I can’t control what you do, if you want to wear green it’s not really my problem, I already did my job of warning you. Actually, if you do wear green to this beach or any other beach in her domain, do tell me if you survive, I’m quite curious. Although you can’t swim there, the place is still rife with visitors coming to lay out blankets and have a picnic, ride ATVs and horses, and just have a nice day at an un-swimmable beach. People also enjoy climbing up the lighthouse to catch the spectacular view of the ocean that stretches over the horizon.